Tag Archives: Free pattern

Playground Shawl

I’ve been eyeing Catherine’s yarn for a while now and every time she posted pictures of it on her Instagram, I sighed and thought “One day, it will find its way to my stash!” And it finally did.

Catherine specializes in self-striping yarns and she dyes them in two versions: classic striping, which is perfect for socks, and shawl striping, which is good for… well, shawls :-) The latter patterning was something I eagerly wanted to try. I saw many versions of simple triangular shawls made with her yarns, but honestly, what I have dreamed of doing is to see how the yarn would work up in a slightly different shape, namely, a biased shawl.

One day I cast on for the shawl shortly after breakfast to be ready to knit it during the many hours I find myself with kids at the playground. It was meant to be simple and fun, with a maximum of two sections that could be easily memorized – a perfect playground shawl.

I used a smaller skein of Caterpillargreen Yarns MCN in colorway Concrete and Tulips, but it should work out fine in any shawl-striped yarn in Cat’s store. Since the section sizes may vary among knitters and skeins (!), I have not included any stitch counts (just how many sts are added in some rows). Thus, you are the one who will decide which chart to use and when to switch to a new section. Do not fear! Once you get friendly with the yarn, it will easily guide you through the shawl. So let’s go!

Playground Shawl

Pattern Information
Size:
adjustable; sample size: approx. 145cm/58” wide along top edge and 55cm/22” high.
Yarn:
1 skein of Caterpillargreen Yarns MCN Fingering – Shawl (70% merino, 20% cashmere, 10% nylon; 370m/405y per 115g). Sample show in colorway: Concrete and Tulips.
Needles: 4.5mm/US #7 circular needle (60cm/24″ long).
Other: tapestry needle for weaving, blocking pins.
Gauge: 16 sts and 38 rows = 10cm/4″ in Garter st worked flat.
The gauge isn’t crucial on this project, but differences will affect the finished size as well as the required yardage.
Abbreviations: BO – bind off; CO – cast on; k – knit; kfb – knit one stitch through the front and back loop to make two stitches; rep – repeat; ssk – slip 2 stitches individually as if to knit, then knit them together through the back loops; st, sts – stitch, stitches; WS – wrong side;  yo – yarn over; ** – repeat as noted between asterisks.

Instructions: The shawl consists of two sections: gray Garter stripes and colorful Lace stripes. Each section may have a different length depending on the color changes, thus there are no stitch counts. When working gray sections all RS rows will begin with an increase, and all WS rows will begin with a decrease and finish with an increase. Lace sections will have 1 increase every row: at beginning of RS rows and end of WS rows.  The combination of these two sections worked alternately will create a long, skewed triangle.

Playground Shawl

SET-UP
With needle, 4.5mm/US#7, CO 4 sts.
Row 1 (RS): k2, kfb, k1. 5 sts
Row 2 (WS): ssk, kfb, k2.

GARTER STRIPES
Row 1 (RS):
k2, kfb, k to end. (+1 st)
Row 2 (WS): ssk, k to last 3 sts, kfb, k2.
Rep the last 2 rows until you run out of gray color, ending with a WS row.
If you see that a new color will be introduced in the middle of a Row 2, work the final row as follows: (WS): ssk, p to last 3 sts, kfb, k2. (See notes below.)

Playground Shawl

LACE STRIPES
Odd-Numbered Section (odd # of sts on needle before working 1st RS row)
Row 1 (RS): k2, kfb, *yo, ssk*, rep to end. (+ 1 st)
Row 2 (WS): k1, *yo, ssk*, rep to last 3 sts, kfb, k2. (+1 st)

Even-Numbered Section (even # of sts before working 1st RS row)
Row 1 (RS): k2, kfb, k1, *yo, ssk*, rep to end. (+1 st)
Row 2 (WS): k1, *yo, ssk*, rep to last 4 sts, k1, kfb, k2. (+1 st)

Rep these 2 rows until you run out of the contrasting color, ending with a WS row.Lace sections

To work the shawl, simply alternate gray Garter stripes and contrasting Lace stripes until you run out of yarn. When you reach the last color, which is gray, work the final Garter stripe then BO all sts in pattern fairly loosely (or with a bigger sized needle).

Finishing: Weave in ends and block the shawl giving it a triangular shape. Enjoy!

Tips:
When working in Caterpillargreen Yarns you will notice that sometimes the color changes occur in the middle of a row. There are two options for dealing with this situation:

  1. Ignore. Yes, just ignore! However, this may result in two-color Garter ridges or gray lace. All depends on you! If it doesn’t bother you, just embrace the beauty of the yarn and leave it as is.
  2. Switch the stitch patterns. This is what I tried to do. When you work in Garter st and you see a new color approaching too soon to make it to the end of the final row, just purl the last WS row in that section (making sure to keep all increases and decreases as per pattern!). If the gray sneaks up faster than expected in the last WS row of a lace section, just work the color lace as per pattern and immediately when the yarn turns to gray, start purling.Sometimes the color change may take place near the beginning of a RS row. In such a case, if the change is from gray to contrasting color, just begin Lace section using gray. However, if the change is from contrasting color to gray, it’s okay to change pattern stitch mid-row – work the color sts in lace and knit all the gray sts. Count this as Row 1 of the next Garter stripe. All these tricks result in really awesome and clean patterning.

Playground Shawl

Finally, I’ve been asked by many people if this shawl can only be knit in Cat’s yarn. Although I strongly recommend enjoying “the Caterpillargreen experience”, of course not! You can grab any yarn you wish – any color, any weight – and just play with the instructions to create your own beautiful Playground Shawl. Your imagination is the only limit here!

Playground Shawl

Happy knitting!

You can dowload PDF version of the pattern here.

Copyright 2015 (c) Lete’s Knits.
Pattern is for personal use only. Please respect designer’s copyright.

Mousie – a free pattern

This design was totally unexpected. Soon after I finished Three Braids I looked at the huge 115g ball of Arroyo sitting on my desk. It just had to be this cardigan for my little girl. Here’s Mousie.
This version is in one size only and it’s free for you to enjoy! Unfortunately I haven’t written down a word while knitting, so this is what I remember doing. Happy knitting!

purp6

Mousie is a seamless cardigan for girls worked from top to bottom.

Size: 2 years.
To fit chest: 53-55 cm /21-22″.
Finished chest: 58 cm / 23.25″.
Length from back neck: 35 cm / 14″.

Yarn: Malabrigo Arroyo (100 g, 306 m / 335 y, 100% merino) or any other sport weight yarn which gives you correct gauge.
Approx yardage: 350-380 m / 380-400 y.

Needles:
US 5 / 3.75 mm (80 cm / 32″, or dpns – optional for sleeves) or appropriate size to get gauge.
US 4 / 3.5 mm (80 cm / 32″) or one size smaller than main needles.
US 3 / 3.25 mm (80 cm / 32″, or dpns – optional for sleeves) or two sizes smaller than main needles.

Other: waste yarn or stitch holder, 4 stitch markers, 4 small buttons, tapestry needle.

Gauge (after blocking):
23 sts x 32 rows = 10 cm / 4″ in Dotted Stitch with larger size needle.
Take time to save time – check your gauge.

Notes: The cardigan is worked flat from top to bottom and is completely seamless. You will begin by CO sts for neck opening. After setting up raglan markers you will increase sts in every RS row, thus creating the yoke. Once you reach the armholes, you will divide the yoke for body and sleeves. Shortly after the split, you will create a tunnel for an I-cord string. From then on the body will be worked even until you reach bottom hem. All hems are worked in Garter stitch, while the body and sleeves are worked in a very simple Dotted stitch. The sleeves are worked in the round and finish with Garter hems as well. At the end you will make I-cord string to tie the cardigan.


Dotted Stitch – worked flat over a multiple of 4 sts + 3 sts.
Row 1 (RS): k1 , *k2, p1, k1*, repeat to last 2 sts, k2.
Rows 2 and 3 (WS): purl across.
Row 4 (RS): k1, *p1, k3*, repeat to last 2 sts, p1, k1.
When worked in the round, Rounds 2 and 4 should be knit around. It’s worked over a multiple of 4 sts then.

dotted stitch

INSTRUCTIONS

YOKE
Beginning at the neck edge, using smaller size needle, US 3 / 3.25 mm, CO 79 sts.
Knit 5 rows.
Next row (RS) – making 1st buttonhole: k until last 5 sts, ssk, yo, k3. From now make 3 more buttonholes in every 14th row (there should be 7 Garter ridges between them).
Knit 3 rows.
Next row – set-up raglan markers and increase sleeves (RS): k4, kfb (front band), k12, pm, k2, kfb x6, k2, pm, k25, pm, k2, kfb x6, k2, pm, k12, kfb, k4 (front band) (14 sts increased) = 93 sts.
Change to larger size needle, US 5 / 3.75 mm.
Next row (WS): k6, p to last 6 sts, k6.
Row 1 – shape raglan and begin Dotted St (RS): k6 (front band), k1, *k2, p1, k1*, repeat to 3 sts before m, k2, m1R, k1, sm, k1, m1L, *k2, p1, k1*, repeat to 1 st before m, m1R, k1, sm, k1, m1L, *k2, p1, k1*, repeat to last 4 sts, k2, p1, m1R, k1, sm, k1, m1L, *k2, p1, k1*, repeat to 1 st before m, m1R, k1, sm, k1, m1L, k1, *k2, p1, k1*, repeat to last 8 sts, k2, k6 (front band) (8 sts increased) = 101 sts.
Row 2 (WS): k6, p to last 6 sts, k6.
Row 3 – shape raglan and continue Dotted St (RS): k6 (front band), k1, *p1, k3*, repeat to 4 sts before m, p1, k2, m1R, k1, sm, k1, m1L, k1, *p1, k3*, repeat to 2 sts before m, p1, m1R, k1, sm, k1, m1L, k1, *p1, k3*, repeat to 1 st before m, m1R, k1, sm, k1, m1L, k1, *p1, k3*, repeat to 2 sts before m, p1, m1R, k1, sm, k1, m1L, k2, *p1, k3*, repeat to last 8 sts, p1, k1, k6 (front band) (8 sts increased) = 109 sts.
Repeat the last 2 rows as established 15 more times, then work WS row once more. Please remember that on each side of every raglan marker there are k1’s, which will never become a part of Dotted Stitch – they create raglan seams. The remaining sts should be worked in Dotted Stitch, thus use m1R or m1L if you need to create a knit stitch, and m1P if you need to make a purl stitch (the dot).
You should have: 35 sts for each front, 50 sts for each sleeve and 59 sts for back = 229 sts total.
Please remember about making buttonholes! They should be worked in the following way now (RS): work in pattern until last 6 sts, k1, ssk, yo, k3.

DIVIDE FOR BODY AND SLEEVES
Next row (RS): work in pattern until m, remove m, transfer 50 sts to waste yarn, CO 2 sts, remove m, work in pattern across back until next m, transfer 50 sts to waste yarn, CO 2 sts, work in pattern until the end. You should have 133 sts for body and 50 sts for each sleeve.
Next row (WS and all WS rows): k6, purl across to last 6 sts, k6.
Next row (RS and all RS rows): k6, work in Dotted Stitch to last 6 sts, k6. Make sure to incorporate underram sts into Dotted st.
Repeat last 2 rows 3 more times, finishing with RS row.

TUNNEL FOR I-CORD
Next row (WS): knit across.
Next row (RS): k6, sl1 wyb, k to last 6 sts, turn.
Next row (WS): sl1 wyf, purl to last 6 sts, turn.
Work @ rows in Stockinette st across all non-band sts. Break yarn.
Now, slip the 6 sts from left front band back to LH needle, and using smaller size neeedle, US 4 / 3.5 mm, work as follows: k6, pick up and knit 121 sts through the purl bumps at the bottom of the previous 4 rows (the bottom of tunnel on WS side), k6.
Next row (WS): k6, p to last 6 sts, k6.
Next row (RS): knit across.
Next row (WS): k6, p to last 6 sts, k6.
Now, you will join the tunnel as follows:  k6, place both LH needles close to each other and knit 121 sts by working from both needles at the same time, k6.
Next row (WS): knit across.

SKIRT
Using the same needle, US 4 / 3.5 mm, work as follows (RS): k6 (front band), k14, kfb x4, k41, kfb x4 k1, kfb x4, k41, kfb x4, k14, k6 (front band) (16 sts increased) = 155 sts.
Change to larger size needle, US 5 / 3.75 mm.
Next row (WS and all WS rows): k6, purl across to last 6 sts, k6.
Next row – resume Dotted st (RS): k6, k1, *k2, p1, k1* repeat to last 8 sts, k2, k6.
Work as established until skirt measures about 16 cm / 6.5″, finishing with RS row.
In the next row (WS) change to smaller size needle, US 3 / 3.25 mm, and knit 8 rows. BO knitwise on WS.

SLEEVES
Transfer 48 sts from waste yarn to bigger size dpns, US 5 / 3.75 mm, and pick up and knit 4 sts for underarm, placing marker in the middle of the picked-up sts. You should have 52 sts.
Work 4 rnds even, making sure to incorporate the underarm created sts into Dotted Stitch.
Decrease rnd: work 19 sts in Dotted St, k2tog x 4, ssk x4, work in Dotted st to end =  44 sts.
Change to smaller size needle, US 3 / 3.25 mm.
Next rnd: purl around.
Next rnd: knit around.
Repeat last 2 rnds once more.
In the next rnd BO all sts purwise, fairly loosely or with a bigger size needle.
Repeat for other sleeve.

I-CORD
Using larger dpns, US 5 / 3.75 mm, CO 3 sts and begin working  as follows: *k3, do not turn work, slide sts to other end of needle*, repeat always keeping RS facing and pulling working yarn snugly across back of work at the beginning of each round. Work even until I-Cord measures about 90-100 cm / 36-40″. BO as follows: sl1 st, k2tog, psso.

FINISHING
Weave in loose ends. Sew buttons in the correct position. Block the cardigan ligthly.
When it’s dry, insert the I-cord into the tunnel using a safety pin. Enjoy!

purp15Copyright (c) Lete’s Knits.
Pattern is for personal use only. Please respect designer’s copyright.

Scrappy Ski Hat – a free pattern

I have lots of leftovers lying around the house. I keep collecting them in small bags according to yarn weight – maybe I’ll use them for a project in the future. Yesterday when I was watching something on TV I unconsciously cast on for a hat. It was totally unplanned. This is what I made – sort of a ski hat :-) I don’t ski, but this is what my Hubby called it and added “Oh you’ve made a hat just like the hats we used to wear when we were kids”.

I did not write down thoroughly tested and edited instructions but if you’d like to make a similar hat I’d like to share what I remember with you.

You will need the following:
yarn: scraps of aran weight yarn “Drops NEPAL” in various colors. Altogether about 150 meters/165 yards, pompom included, but this may vary among knitters.
needles: 3.75 mm/US#5 and 4.5 mm/US #7 circular needles or dpns, or size needed to obtain correct gauge.
notions: stitch marker, darning needle, pompom maker (optional).

Size
The hat should fit an average adult’s head with circumference of 52-56 cm/21-22″.

Gauge
18 sts over 10 cm/4″ in Stockinette with bigger needle (the hat was not washed!)

Brim
Using smaller size needle, CO 88 sts. Join for working in round making sure not to twist the stitches. Place BOR marker.
Work 5 cm/2″ in 2×2 rib (k2, p2).
Increase round: *k11, m1r*, repeat around = 96 sts.

Body
Change to bigger size needle and begin working stripe sequences. If you look closely you will see that each 2-color sequence is worked like that:
Rounds 1 and 2: knit around in C1 yarn.
Round 3: *k1 (C2), k1 (C1)*, repeat around.
Round 4: knit around in C2 yarn.
Next you will repeat the sequence with a new pair of matching colors. And so on, and so on…

Here’s a small chart for you.

Work as established until your hat measures about 16 cm/6.5″ from CO edge, or desired length.

Crown Shaping
When working crown decreases on round 4 of the 2-color sequence you will notice that sometimes it’ll be better to use ssk instead of k2tog. It will allow you to keep the continuity of the blend between C1 and C2 (in other words you will not have one-color stitches next to each other).
Round 1: *k10, k2tog*, repeat around = 88 sts.
Round 2: knit around.
Round 3: *k9, k2tog*, repeat around = 80 sts.
Round 4: knit around.
Round 5: *k8, k2tog*, repeat around =72 sts.
Round 6: knit around.
Round 7:*k7, k2tog*, repeat around =64 sts.
Round 8: *k6, k2tog*, repeat around = 56 sts.
Round 9: *k5, k2tog*, repeat around = 48 sts.
Round 10: *k4, k2tog*, repeat around = 40 sts.
Round 11: *k3, k2tog*, repeat around = 32 sts.
Round 12: *k2, k2tog*, repeat around = 24 sts.
Round 13: *k1, k2tog*, repeat around = 16 sts.
Round 14:  k2tog around = 8 sts.

Cut yarn and pull through remaining live stitches and then pull thread closing the hole. Weave in ends and block the hat lightly (if you wish to – I didn’t :-).
That’s it :-)

Oh, one more thing. Make a pom pom using your favorite techinque and enjoy :-)

My son saw the huge pompom and immediately requested a ski hat for himself. Well, what can you do :-)